Thursday, February 17, 2011

Bedugul


Bedugul is the name used to cover a large area of the central highlands of Bali around the villages of Bedugul itself, Candikuning, Pancasari, Pacung and Wanagiri (amongst others). This is an area of great natural beauty. The focus point of the area centres on the three crater lakes of Bratan (Beratan), Buyan and Tamblingan, and the nearby botanical gardens. The whole area is at an altitude of 700 metres or more, with the tallest mountain peaks above 2,000 metres, and it can be distinctly chilly here.

This article covers the Bedugul area as well as the village of Munduk to the west, and areas between Bedugul and Mount Batukaru to the south west.

Get in

Bedugul is located about 50 km north of Denpasar on a main route from South Bali to North Bali. The area is served by regular bemos which depart from Batubulan terminal in Denpasar in the south, and from Singaraja in the north. The Perama bus company has a local office in central Bedugul at the Sari Artha Inn. A common way for visitors to appreciate this beautiful mountain region is to hire a car and driver for the day from their base in South Bali. Make sure you have a driver who knows the area well (ask questions to determine this), and fix the price for the day in advance. Depending on the class of car, expect to pay between Rp 500,000 and 600,000 including petrol. Car parking fees and any entrance charges will be extra, and it is always appreciated if you offer to buy the driver lunch.


Another option is to hire your own car and drive up here. Be sure to bring a good map though, and when in doubt, always ask locals for directions.

Get around

If you are staying in Bedugul, hiring a motorcycle is a good idea as some of the distances between areas of interest are quite long. Your hotel will be able to arrange this and you should expect to pay from Rp 50,000 to 80,000 per day.

The physically fit will enjoy mountain biking here. There are no formal taxis but you will find plenty of drivers willing and able to transport you for a fixed price.

The area is well served by local bemos, and the central gathering points for these are in and around the car park at Candikuning Market, and in the vilage of Pancasari just before you reach Lake Buyan. Be prepared for the local users to be carrying all sorts of market produce, including live chickens and other animals.

See

  • Bali Botanical Gardens (Kebun Raya Eka Karya), ☎ +62 368 21273, 8AM-6PM daily. One of Indonesia's four official botanical gardens. Located in Candikuning. The entrance road is identified by the presence of a giant stone corn on the cob statue! From the information centre buy a copy of an excellent little pamphlet called Six Self Guided Walks in the Bali Botanical Gardens and set off on your way. The gardens are huge covering some 160 hectares and any visitor with an interest in plants and trees could easily spend a whole day here. Also, an informative library and gift shop. Rp 6,000.

  • Jatiluwih, (on the main Sangeh to Bedugul road turn west towards Babanan about 8 km before you reach Bedugul. Follow the Jatiluwih signs and you will reach the pay booth.). A startlingly beautiful area of verdant, terraced rice paddies nestled in the shadow of Mount Batukaru. Take your time and explore thoroughly. There are a number hikes thorough truly stunning terrain. When you have had your fill there a couple of cafes for refreshment and yet more views. In 2007 this was nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. Rp 10,000 per person plus Rp 5,000 per car.
  • Munduk Waterfall, (about 1 km west of Munduk market). These falls are impressive and really roar in the wet season. A spot that is little visited, despite being perhaps the most impressive accessible falls on the whole island. Rp 5,000.



  • Pura Ulun Danu Bratan (Lake Bratan Temple), Lake Bratan, Bedugul. 7AM-5PM daily. After Tanah Lot, this is perhaps the most photographed temple on the island and is certainly one of the iconic images of Bali. The temple sits on the western shore of Lake Bratan and it can give the illusion of actually floating on the water. Built in 1633, the temple is devoted to Ida Batara Dewi Ulun Danu, goddess of the lake. A beautiful temple in a truly stunning setting. Rp 5,000.

Do

  • Explore the mountain roads and take in the wonderful views. The area around Munduk to the west of Lake Tamblingan is especially spectacular, and you can continue the drive through Munduk village to Banyuatis and then all the way to Seririt near Lovina on the north coast.
  • Play golf at Bali Handara Kosaido Golf and Country Club, +62 362 22646. At an altitude of 1,142 metres and surrounded by green mountains, crater lakes and ancient forest, this Peter Thompson designed course is considered one of the very best in Asia.
  • Birdwatching is good in this area around the lakes, and in the botanical gardens where some 97 species have been officially recorded. A number of scarce montane species are to be found here.
  • Water sports on Lake Bratan. Parasailing, speedboat rides and jetskis are all available if you are comfortable with polluting such a beautiful lake. The more environmentally conscious may wish to restrict their lake activities to renting a rowing boat. These are all controlled from Taman Rekreasi Bedugul (admission Rp 10,000) on the southern shore of Lake Bratan.
  • Trekking in the mountains and around the lakes is very rewarding. There are regular, organised group departures from Taman Rekreasi Bedugul at Lake Bratan and the Botanical Gardens. If you require an individual guide for your own planned trek, your hotel will be able to help or ask at Taman Rekreasi Bedugul. Popular organised treks include:
    • Climbing Mount Catur (2,096m), starting at Taman Rekreasi Bedugul. This is quite a stiff climb.
    • Around Lake Tamblingan, returning by canoe. A very leisurely trek.
    • Around Jatiluwih with options from a 2 hour stroll to a stiff 8 hour trek.
    • The Munduk area is also popular and extremely scenic.
  • Angseri hot springs lies about 20km to the south of central Bedugul. From the main market head directly south. It is well sign-posted.
  • Understand the crops. Interesting crops grown in this area include coffee, vanilla, cloves and cacao. Once you know them, you will see clove trees everywhere at the side of the highland roads. There are several coffee plantations on the roads north of Lake Bratan and around Munduk.
  • Bali Treetop Adventure Park, at the Botanical Gardens, +62 361 8520680,. The park includes six main circuits that stretch from tree to tree, as well as nets, Tarzan Jumps, and bridges. Each run also features "Flying Fox" zip-lines of up to 160 metres, providing heart-pounding thrills to guests as they fly through the air. Two circuits are designed for young children from 4 years old.

Buy

  • Bedugul (Bukit Mungsu) Traditional Market in Candikuning. Bedugul is the highland garden of Bali, producing lots of cool climate fruits and vegetables. In the market here you can find strawberries plus a myriad of tropical fruits, vegetables, corn and orchids. This is a great place to buy exotic spices, with mixed gift packs being especially popular. There is also an art section of the market with lots of handicrafts.
  • Pick your own Strawberries. There are several strawberry farms in the area. Look for signs.

Eat

Bedugul has a small but well-established Sasak community, and for that reason is known for restaurants serving the Lombok speciality Ayam Taliwang (spiced young chicken served grilled or fried). Look for restaurants with the Ayam Taliwang sign around Lake Bratan especially.

  • Bedugul Lake View. 11AM-9PM. An Indonesian restaurant on the way down from the market to Lake Bratan. Serves Ayam Taliwang and other tasty local dishes.
  • Ngiring Ngewedang, (from Wanagiri take the main route towards Munduk village. After you have passed Lake Tamblingan, this restaurant is located about another 1 km west on the same road and about 2 km before you reach Munduk village itself), ☎ +62 812 3807010 (info@ngiringngewedang.com),. 10AM-5PM. Very good value Indonesian food in a restaurant with views to die for. They also process local coffee beans here and will be happy to show the facility and sell you green or freshly roasted beans. An excellent option for lunch if you want to get away from the crowds in Bedugul. Highly recommended. edit
  • Restaurant Batukaru, (between Mount Batukaru and Jatiluwih). 8AM-4PM daily. Must-visit restaurant if you're driving the road around Jatiluwih. It has a stunning view over the rice terraces and also a close-view rice terrace right beside it. Expect big tourist coaches to stop here in the early afternoon, but you'll most likely be the only visitors between 3PM and 4PM. There's a buffet, but you can also just order from the menu. After eating, head up stairs through the garden and taste some Balinese tea varieties free of charge (though you're expected to buy a package of Balinese tea for around Rp 80,000). About Rp 50,000 per head.
  • Roti Bedugul, Candi Kuning, ☎ +62 368 21838. 8AM-6PM. Bakery in Candi Kuning famous for good quality bread, croissants and danish pastries.
  • Strawberry Hill (Bukit Strobeli), 5 minutes to the south of Bedugul at the KM48 marker, ☎ +62 368 21265. 8AM-9PM. Mountain roadside restaurant serving tasty Indonesian favourites and soups, salads, chicken and burgers - and strawberries. When the air is cool, cozy up beside a real log fire. Also comfortable mid-range accommodation here.
  • Strawberry Stop, (on the road betweeen Lake Bratan and Lake Buyan), ☎ +62 368 21060. 8AM-7PM. Stop by this strawberry farm for snacks, milkshakes and of course, strawberries. Unless you are brave, give the strawberry wine a very wide berth.
  • Warung Anugerah (King Fried Chicken), Main Square, Candikuning. 10AM-10PM. Simple and cheap rice, but nothing special. It's the only restaurant open after 8PM on the square in Candikuning. About Rp 20,000.
  • Warung Bukit Hexon, Wanagiri,. An organic food restaurant right above Buyan lake .

Drink

  • Crackers Bar, ☎ +62 811 388697,. 9AM-8PM. Quite bizarrely, this Australian-owned sports bar and cafe is located at the back of the traditional market in Bedugul.

Sleep

All visitors should note that it does get distinctly cold here at night and that budget accomodation will not have any heating nor provide adequate blankets. Come prepared.

Pak Oles Resort, Bengkel village,. Pak Oles Resort Located about 6 km bellow Munduk village The resort was a based home of Mr. G.N. Wididana is more widely known as "Pak Oles or Mr. Oles" and his family. He had created more rooms with the concepts “learning holiday” which allow the guests to feel the village atmosphere while learning the used of EM . The resort located at the same compound with IPSA which serves as a training ground where the research and development of EM.

Budget

There are several small and affordable guesthouses in Bedugul and budget travellers often just turn up without bookings.

  • Ashram Guest House, ☎ +62 362 21042. Great location for budget accommodation close to Lake Bratan. The standard is very basic though. Notable for being very cold - take a blanket! About Rp 60,000.
  • Guru Ratna Homestay, Munduk (200 metres from the market in Munduk), ☎ +62 813 38526092. Charming and very good value accommodation in an atractive rural mountain setting. Consists of five colonial Dutch style houses with great valley views. Environmental concerns taken very seriously here. Rp 150,000.
  • Ibu Hadi Homestay, JI Kebun Raya, Bedugul (close to the traditional market on the way down towards Lake Bratan). Basic accommodation in a three storey homestay. Small restaurant. About Rp 80,000.
  • Penginapan Cempaka, (on the entrance road to the Botanical Gardens), ☎ +62 362 21042. Simple, clean guesthouse accommodation close to the entrance to the botanical gardens. Rp 70,000.
  • Sari Artha Inn, ☎ +62 368 21011. Simple rooms on the main road between the market and Lake Bratan. The local Perama bus office is here. Rp 100,000.

Mid-range

  • Bedugul Hotel, Taman Rekreasi, Bedugul, ☎ +62 361 26593. Rather basic hotel for the price but in a great location overlooking Lake Bratan. Can arrange treks and bicycle hire. Popular with groups of domestic tourists during holiday periods. Rp 300,000.
  • Bedugul Lake View Residence, Candikuning (between Candikuning and Lake Batur). It might not look or feel like a hotel, as there is no reception or breakfast, but you can spend the night at this condo block by asking the guard. Luxury rooms, some with views on the lake. After dusk, it can be very cold in the rooms as there is no heating, but thick blankets are provided. Rp 500,000.
  • Enjung Beji Resort, ☎ +62 813 37515414, . Excellent value bungalow accomodation close to the shores of Lake Bratan. From US$30.
  • Bali Lakeside Villa, (),. Three bedroom holiday rental villa overlooking lake Beratan and Bedugul valley. A peaceful and relaxing location. From Rp 600,000.
  • Lake Buyan Cottages, Lake Buyan, Pancasari, Bedugul, ☎ +62 362 21351. Self catering cottages on the shore of Lake Butan. About 2 km from the golf course.
  • Lumbung Sari Cottages, Munduk, ☎ +62 362 92810 (),. A gorgeous self styled eco-resort offering lumbung cottage accomodation. The size and standard of these varies as does the price you pay. Offers many outdoor and nature-based activities. Superb location in a very attractive part of Bali. From US$18 to 258.
  • Pacung Indah Hotel, ☎ +62 368 21020 (),. In Pacung, about 10 kilometres south of Bedugul. Eight bungalows with panoramic views. From Rp 230,000.

Splurge

  • Bali Handara Kosaido Golf and Country Club, ☎ +62 362 22646,. The golf and country club has hotel room and bungalow accommodation attached with spa and tennis facilities. From about US$100.
  • The Kalaspa Health Retreat, Banjar Asah Panji (between Lake Tamblingan and Munduk),. Eight private luxury villas with in-house spa. From US$ 273.
  • Saranam Eco Resort (Formerly known as Pacung Asri), Jalan Raya Baturiti, Br Pacung, Desa Baturiti, Kecamatan Baturiti (in Pacung, a few minutes south of Bedugul), ☎ +62 368 21038 (),. Very nice valley views from this resort. A range of accommodation from standard rooms to detached bungalows. Offer a full frange of activities in the central highlands. From Rp 600,000.

Contact

The area code for Bedugul is 0368.

There is a public telephone office at Bukit Mungsu Market in Candikuning, but internet facilties are thin on the ground and your best bet is to look for for WiFi signs at local cafes.

Get out

  • The north coast centres of Lovina, Singaraja and Pemuteran are easily reached from Bedugul by car, motorbike and bus.
  • A journey back south to Denpasar and beyond will take 1 hour plus.
  • The Jatiluwih route can easily be combined with a visit to Pura Luhur Batukaru, near Wongayagede village in the Tabanan area.

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